Marsella Bar is a regular hang out for me and one of my group of friends. The bar is situated in an interesting place in Raval. The first time I walked in this street, I got a bit shocked. There was a line of prostitutes standing around. A parallel universe for me being used to a comfortable and cosy world. Of course, workers of the night are present in every city. Just that when you plan to spend a night out and to have fun with your friends, it is a harsh reality that pops in front of your eyes.
Marsella, a bar with a lot of characters
Passed the first moment of shock, I followed my friends into the building. And here we are in Marsella. It was the first bar in Barcelona and as such the oldest bar in the city. It is pretty old alright but also has its charms and a lot of characters. The place has kept a feel of 19th century, not that I am that old to remember… I imagine a bar where French poet Arthur Rimbaud would go for a drink, hang out with Verlaine, get inspiration or just relax to be like this one. Marsella has mirrors all over the walls, shelves of really dusty old bottles, a peeling ceiling that would not mind a layer of paint. Also the colour of the walls (yellow/golden) gives the room a bohemian feel along with the chandeliers.
Everytime I come, the bar is crowded with groups of friends, expats and tourists. They all mix up here, all cool and happy. I like the atmosphere. And everytime I come, the place is full and all the tables busy but somehow one frees up magically when we enter. The waiter would place us and then ask for the order. “6 glasses of absinthe please!” Yes, …absinthe …hence my reference earlier to Arthur Rimbaud. I suppose a place like Marsella would lose all of its magic with normal bar drinks such as G&T or beers.
Drinking absinthe, a ritual
Our drinks arrive. 6 glasses of a golden liquor, 2 bottles of water with a pierced cap, sugar and forks. There is a ritual to follow to drink absinthe. Firstly, I soak my cube of sugar in the alcohol and then burn it with a lighter. This I believe is to improve the taste of the drink, quite strong and bitter. I like watching the blue flame taking over the sugar, taking life and slowly fading away. Then I pour the water in the glass until the drink is a clearer yellow. The real technique implies that the water is dripped on the sugar cube. I suppose again that like this the sugar dissolves easily in the drink and one would not have to toss it like I do when-I-put-sugar-in-my-coffee as my friend notices.
The drink is sweet and anisy and before my lips even touch the glass, I already know that this is a treacherous drink. I sip it but I keep in the back of my mind that tomorrow I could have a strong headache and probable hangover…All the more that I find myself betting with another friend of mine about who is going to drink faster our second glass. What has got into me? Absinthe drunk like a shot… At least, I won – a chicken curry dinner cooked by him. Hopefully A. will remember it when he sobers up … He does not admit defeat though and challenges me with a 4 vodka shots drinking competition so we head towards the bar. The barman turns his back on us and completely ignores A.’s calls. It is time to close and pack up. Thank God, I am saved by the bell!
Marsella – C/Sant Pau 65, El Raval, Barcelona
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