So I am at the end of my italian journey starting with 3 days in Rome. “Ciao Bella Roma” is a wink to my Italian friends’ favourite italian restaurant in Dublin where I lived for a while.This is my third time back to Rome and I remember having not been impressed at all before. It was too hot, full of ancient ruins and Romans were unfriendly. But you always need to give a second chance and I am glad I even gave a third chance to Rome because it is a really enchanting city.
I travelled with my parents who I suspect did not want to go around with me for my highly entertaining personality but because they need a tour operator\reservation agent\translator\tour guide\official photographer…haha… Alas, I have no real proof of this outside the fact that I booked all the flights and train tickets, the hotels and apartments, that I spoke to all “external” people the whole trip and also took quite a few pics of my dad everywhere…mmm…- feeling dubious…To feel more homey, we rented out one apartment located 10 mn walk from the Vatican museum and 25 mn from Piazza Navona.
D1: Our first stop was the Vatican and St Peter’s square, given the long, long queues, we have skipped the Vatican Museum\the Sixtine Chapel as well as entering the Vatican itself (I have been here before anyway). A good tip though: we came back on sunday afternoon at 4 o’clock to see the Vatican and only waited 15mn to get in. A pity that my two shoulders decided to reveal themselves to the eyes of the public that day. I was too indecently dressed up so the staff did not let me in. Damn… (Don’t forget to bring a wrap to cover yours, no hot pants or miniskirts allowed either!)… This time round, I was not into chasing monuments and art anyway but more about chilling and soaking up the atmosphere on the numerous piazzas.
In Piazza Navona, we sat down on the kerb for a bit of a rest, to admire its fountains and great buildings and to watch people walking around. I enjoy these kind of moments, all the more when a great jazz street band is playing at the same time. I could have sat there the whole morning but I only had 3 days in Rome so I had to make the most out of it. Then we headed to the Pantheon – 10mn from Piazza Navona.
In Rome, there are fountains dispensing fresh and clear water all the time. It is almost not needed to carry a bottle around. The freshness of the water was more than welcomed in the heat of the summer. And luckily, there is one on the way to the Pantheon from the bottom of Piazza Navona. Life saver… Again in front of the Pantheon, there was this amazing electronic guitar player filling the air with his melodies. Wonderful! I could sit here again, watch the people and listen to the music but it was lunch time. We decided to walk back on our steps to go to Pizzeria Da Bafetto, located near Piazza Navona. This place was highly recommended for pizzas and to be honest, they were quite nice but the service was awful. We sat down in the restaurant but as there was too much noise from the works outside we decided to take our pizzas away. The waiter ousted us not very politely and told us to wait outside then… This is my third trip to Rome and as far as I remember I have not really been impressed with Romans’ attitude sometimes. I thought the customer was king…
After lunch, we headed to the Fontana di Treviso. It was without water as in repair. Funny enough, even dry, whoever is in charge of the fountain was still inciting the tourists to throw their coins in from a specific spot…ahem…interesting way to get funding…Legend has it that tossing a coin will ensure a return to Rome. Tossing two coins that you will return to Rome and fall in love. Tossing three coins means you will return, find love and marry. There is a proper technique to tossing a coin as well: use your right hand over your left shoulder. My mum informed us that they used to collect 3,000 euros every night from the fountain. As for me, I was disappointed. I have prepare my own remake of Anita Ekberg’s Trevi Fountain scene from Dolce vita. It will be for another time…sigh…So we went to Piazza di Spagna, sat down again to admire the spanish steps. It was too hot to climb them up though. Then, we went for a bit of window shopping on Via Dei Condotti. This is the street of the luxury shops in Rome. Jimmy Choo Shoes? Prada suit anyone? Via Corso, a popular shopping street, is not so far either with more affordable shops. That was our last stop of the day.
D2 is the ancient ruins day. Our first stop was Trajan’s market, a large complex of ruins on the way to the Colosseum. We also passed by Piazza Venezia with the impressive monument to Vittorio Emmanuel II. Again, I can hear one of those talented street musicians that Rome seems to be full of. It feels like in a movie. Then we headed to the Colosseum. Afterwards, we passed the Forum and went to the Boca della Verita. I remember on our first roman trip, my sister and I looked for this place after seeing a romantic movie where during their romantic walk, the soon-to-be-in-love couple romantically put their hand inside the mouth. The belief is that la “Bocca della Verità” bites off the hand of anyone not telling the truth. Hehe, I am very innocent then since I am still typing this post with my two hands ;).
Now it is time for lunch. We head back to Piazza Navona and after a few inquiries, choose la Taverna Parione. The terrace was empty but there were laughters and happy voices coming from inside. In addition, they did not sound touristy. No offense against the tourist, I am one myself but if I can get an authentic experience, I will take it with no hesitation. I really like the menu. They offered varied bruschettas and homemade pasta dishes. I chose for the table: lard bruschetta and tomato & basil bruschetta. Also fried zucchini flowers. I got obssessed with them after reading “Eat, Pray and Love” where the protagonist was raving about fried zucchini flowers. They are treated like a real delicacy in Italy. Ours had a cheese filling inside and a thin batter outside. Not sure that it was identical to Julia Roberts’ but they were very nice. Then the first course: pasta and more precisely Tonnarelli carciofi e guanciale – homemade pasta with artichokes, bacon and parmesan. The best pasta dish I have ever had accompanied with a glass of chianti (ooohh, that glass of chianti…). Exactly what I needed: simple and delicious italian food. I fell in love with good pasta that day.
After lunch we went for dessert to the Gelateria del Teatro. The place is hype and gourmet (and quite pricey, 6 euros for 3 scoops), I tried different new flavours: white chocolate and basil, red peach and passion fruit. The scoops are definitely full of flavours but I prefer more classical tastes. I was happy with the experience though.
D3 is a Trastevere and shopping day. Trastevere looks more bohemian with the same kind of narrow cobbled streets and ancient houses as Rome’s historical center. It also has a more vibrant feel. It must be nice to dine or come for an aperitivo here. We did not have time for one aperitivo but I would definitely plan one next time I come back. After a walk around, we sat at a terrace for a spritz, an italian cocktail with prosecco wine and aperol.
Then it was shopping time: shoes and bag. Italian leather is fine and cheap. There are also the clothing shops, the gourmet food shops and the italian design shops. I got a necklace from a design shop. It is from an italian brand, Whiteleaves. I love it but it got stolen in Naples…That is another story I will tell you in my next post on Naples. Keep in touch! That evening, we went to La Fiorentina in our neighbourhood on Via Andrea Doria. I liked the place because it looked more local. The decor was also nice, the food on display looked tasty but I would recommend this place for ice cream (1 euro a scoop and super delicious) and breakfast, 2 coffees and 2 pastry for 4,80 Eur – tasty and at a decent price.
My top experience of Rome? Wandering in the narrow streets of historical Rome with their colourful houses. At each corner, you make a new discovery: a nice facade, a white marble building…Everywhere you look, it is a feast for the eyes, up, right, left, back…I would endlessely get lost in the streets of the Eternal city!